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Day Seven
Nuns
Nuns at Bayzur Nunnery sing while they construct a dormitory
using ancient construction techniques--pounding layer after layer
of mud into a wooden form. Sue from Malta, a traveler
on the 2006 tour, climbs the ladder and joins in.

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Trongsa to Bhumtang:  This morning we leave for a leisurely four-hour drive to Jakar Village in Bhumthang. Along the way there will be ample time to stop at a moment’s notice as your photographic eye spots every sort of cultural scene that can be imagined. The route crosses YotongLa pass (10,800 ft.) which is marked by a chorten and an array of prayer flags--it marks the boundary between western and central Bhutan as well as the western border of Jigme Singye Wangchuck National Park. Beyond Pele La is Longte Valley where people raise sheep and yaks. We will pass through the village of Rukubji Valley with its big secondary school and Gompa. The houses here are clustered amid extensive fields of mustard, potatoes, barley, and wheat.

As we descent the pass we drive down through rhododendrons and ferns and reach Chendebji village. This was a night halt for mule caravans traveling from Trongsa during the reign of the 2nd King of Bhutan. Just below Chendebji village is the Chendebji chorten, a large white structure beside a stream. This chorten is modeled after Swayambhunath in Kathmandu and was built in the 19th century. Lunch at Chendebji Chorten Cafeteria

Continue on to Jakar, the central town of the Bhumthang district. As you enter the Chhume Valley (the first of the four valleys that comprise the Bhumthang Valley) you will visit a center of Yathra weaving. Yathra is the name for the locally produced hand-woven woolen cloth. Distinctive patterns and bright earthy colors enliven the fabric which is used for a wide variety of purposes and sought after throughout Bhutan. We have been asked many times, "Where is the best place to buy authentic Bhutanese handicrafts?"  This is that place!  They have a huge assortment of hand-woven cloth, jackets, bags and clothing as well as a few authentic antiques and rugs woven by Tibetan refugees.

When we reach Jaker we will check into and have lunch at River Lodge.  Then it’s off for an afternoon of exploring the Bhumthang valley.  We will discuss options at lunch and everyone will undoubtedly head off in different directions then meet back at River Lodge for dinner.  Two suggestions that are a must-see are the Swiss cheese/Red Panda Beer factory and the ancient and revered Tamshing Temple, known to the locals as the Temple of Good Messages.  Built in 1501 by Pema Lingpa with “…the help of celestial beings,” this temple is the most important Nyingmapa temple in the kingdom.  The temple houses an ancient chainmail jacket that is said to wash away sins of the people who are able to wear it over the shoulders while circumambulating the temple three times. 

Overnight: River Lodge  (Leave laundry here while in Ugen Choling, pick up in three days when we return to spend another night here.)

Guest House
The Guest House at Ugen Choling. No electricity
but some plumbing and Western toilets. Vegetarian
food only as the owners are strict Buddhists.
Yak Meat
Herders hacking up a yak--a year's worth of meat
for a small family. Everything is used,
like the American Indians used buffalo.
Villager
Ugen Choling villager and child